Epilogue

From the moment he planted the birch tree alongside his childhood home, John Nickoli had every intention of returning to Norway someday). As he neared the end of his ninth decade, that possibility grew less certain. My timely assignment to the air base in England provided his last opportunity.

Even at the age of 87, my grandfather was an intrepid traveler. He rode in the back seat of our Rambler station wagon for more than two thousand miles, asking for nothing more than a thermos of hot coffee.

Norway’s scenery was stunning with deep blue fjords, flowing waterfalls, and sharp, snow-capped mountains. As we traveled north, I wondered why anyone would want to leave this spectacular country. We were there, however, during the long days of summer. How different it would have looked in the endless nights of winter, when the sun never rose above the horizon.

John kept his memories of Norway alive through the stories he told of his childhood, encouraged by his grandsons, who provided eager ears. The trip connected him with his past and brought to life the scenes I had previously glimpsed only in my imagination and in the painting by F. Mason Holmes.

In many ways, not much changed after John sailed for America. The population of the islands had stabilized or perhaps even decreased. Small farms were no longer self-sustaining. As young family members grew into adulthood, they were forced to leave for the cities. With so little productive land available, there were few options other than the open ocean with all its inherent dangers. Some however, like John, chose America where opportunity beckoned those who dreamed and persevered.

Fifty years have passed since we made that once-in-a-lifetime journey. I am now only eight years younger than my grandfather was back then. Perhaps there is still time to return someday with my own grandchildren. We would ride together on the Hertigruten. From the docks at Nesna, they could place a call to their parents in America. Should my day never come, I am hopeful that John’s story will encourage them to travel on their own to the land of the midnight sun. When setting foot on the island of Hugla, may they find a young generation of Norwegian relatives waiting to lead them to the top of the mountain. No doubt, the old house and the birch tree will still be standing.